Spy: Nicolas Kirkwood’s

Saturated colour with psychedelic tendencies dominated Nicholas Kirkwood’s high voltage spring presentation that was shown against a backdrop inspired by Tadanori Yokoo’s 1970s poster art. While many designers were showing flats on their runways, the London-based designer offered up the full height gauntlet from curvinealler wedges to bow-tied sandals within Paris’ L’Hôtel du Grand Veneur.

There were hints at sci-fi references in his laser cutting, as well as plenty of graphic montages thanks to abstract florals and colour wheel patchworks, cut in bright satins and printed leather. Kirkwood’s Chevron Star was also back in business, which we loved on rainbow hued wedge espadrilles. You could say we made more than one wish under the branches of his Technicolour tree.

Kirkwood - Kaleidoscope SandalKirkwood - Origami Pump 2Kirkwood - Origami Flat SandalKirkwood - Stencil Mule 2Kirkwood - Stencil Alona Loafer

Spy: Pierre Hardy’s

Pierre Hardy with his iconic cubist designs is a talented Parisian cobbler in his own right, but he’s also the brains behind Hermès’ footwear and fine jewellery lines. This season to celebrate his latest collection for the French house he hosted a vegetational soirée in Paris, just days before the spring/summer 2015 show to present his latest footwear line derived from key Hermès icons.

Kicking off the season, strappy laser-cut sandals drew inspiration from the maison’s hugely successful ‘Balcon du Guadalquivir’ red and white porcelain china pattern, while his chain link jewellery was mined for the straps of flat, tan leather sandals. We were also rather fond of his two-tone loaders in sky blue and black or lemon, as well as his flip-flops that were so beach friendly they actually float. Stay tuned for the house’s runway show later this week, which will conclude Paris Fashion Week and the 2015 spring season. Meantime, you have time to contemplate the Hermès riding boot in bright pink.


It Appeal: Shrimps’

For spring/summer 2015 Shrimps designer Hannah Weiland was thinking “Part Pleasantville, part Flintstones” when it came to the set design of her London Fashion Week show, which took inspiration from the Bedrock-like architecture of Frenchman Jacques Couëlle.

The cartoon connection continued in the plush textures of her faux stingray and jaguar print that updated her signature boxy chubby, gillet and biker jacket, as her fluffy clutches were finished with an oversized pearl detailing. Just as brilliant was the addition of a silk pyjamas collaboration with brand Poplin given the spring season. While also new to the Shrimps mix were Weiland’s fetching faux fur heels – thanks to another pairing with fellow Londoner Sophia Webster. The only problem is having to wait until February for her first furry delivery.


Spy: Osman’s spring cocktail fling

Last night we hosted an cocktail event at Moda Operandi’s brand new London personal shopping space in honour of Osman’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection. Right off the London Fashion Week runway, as of Tuesday morning, the soirée was an opportunity to see the designer’s deliciously detail oriented, escapist collection up close.

For spring the London designer’s minimalist silhouettes were bathed in an exoticism of texture, colour and embellishment. Seed beads were sewn in circular patterns on strapless sheaths and flat leather thigh high boots – inspired by the Maharaja of Jaipur’s ceremonial  jewels – as a kaleidoscopic Yves Klein blue ink blot print, designed by Alex Beattie, leaked onto his summer coat and a backless jumpsuit.

Running away to the Orient, Fez hat tassels were similarly embroidered and printed onto tailoring, while a hippie undercurrent was inspired by England’s 1960s festivals scene – resulting in patchwork skirts and strapless gowns.

And as for Moda’s impressive residential-style, Pretty in Pink salon located on Grosvenor Crescent Mews, it was formally the home of CoutureLab, having been recently designed by Fran Hickman and offering up two storeys of plush shopping room. This is no doubt set to be London’s premier fashion event space.