It started at Nicolas Ghesquière’s autumn/winter 2014 Louis Vuitton debut. Opening with a pointy collared leather car coat that swung with an ode to the 1970s, the Frenchman ushered in a season of leather appreciation, courtesy of his A-line minis, patchwork bomber jackets and spray-on black trousers. Also refreshing was his use of the skin as a trimming on all matter for retro-inspired dresses, just most each look was finished with a high-shine leather belt and stack heeled booties.
What this collection did curbside (in addition to making the Seventies an insta trend), was to inspire a whole new mode of leather dressing at the recent spring/summer 2015 shows. Moving past the classic leather pant or pencil skirt teamed with a statement knit or coat, we instead saw all matter of slimline tailored leather dresses, cut with a tasteful Milanese sophistication, along with long-line leather trenches. In the skirt arena, think fluted from a high waist, or cut long with little extra length to spell out ‘main attraction’ rather than the time-honoured reputation as a ‘stealth basic’. Also new to the mix was the pelt’s casual pairing with simple sandals and t-shirt jersey, which kept the overall look feeling fresh and youth centric.
Remember Hanneli Mustaparta in her white Frame Denim overalls at the March collections? Something tells us we weren’t the only ones to take note, because the latest shows were jumping with bib n’ brace all-in-ones. Indeed, there was denim for day in addition to leather doing day-to-night, as kindergarten chic rapidly caught on. But to make sure you don’t look like you’re about to tackle home renos, team yours with an on-trend turtleneck (cashmere just dropped in Uniqlo) or a silken Equipment blouse, before completing the play date with a pump or a grown-up, man-style loafer. With brands from Rag & Bone to Current/Elliot ticking off denim, and R13 stepping out in leather, we’ll be hanging ten in ours in the office as well as out and about on the weekend. And note: Frame is also doing a cropped version for those chasing the sun this holiday season.
Fine jewellery’s latest protégé is Charlotte Dauphin de La Rochefoucauld, whose fledgling label Dauphin may be less than a year old, but is already making waves within the storied category for her contemporary way with ‘blue’ gold and sweeping, sculptural curves. Hailing from an aristocratic French family, the former art student’s architectural approach has amassed a 21-piece debut collection that sees pavé diamonds clinging to curvilinear collars and geometric earrings scaling lobes. Watch this space.
We may have been seeing bootcut flares all over the Spring/Summer 2015 runways (Tom Ford we mean you especially), but on the streets, a 70s culottes flashback has been brewing.
The main thing of note when trying these three-quarter pants is quite simply: proportion with a capital P. Keep jackets short, or opt for a jumper or blouse – making sure to tuck in to reduce bulk. Then with regards to shoes, you’ll need some height to balance the culottes’ wide-leg and potentially unflattering crop at the shins – even if it’s just a kitten heel. The more graphic or strappier the better.
And finally, pair with a cross-the-body bag or clutch, as a heavy shoulder bag will ruin the silhouette and add unwanted volume up top. The last thing? Have fun, these are pants to run around in. Attitude is most welcome here.